Helpful Advice
Preparation
Condition soil by incorporating organic material such as manure or compost.
On Arrival
Plant immediately if possible. If not the rose can be left in the package unopened in a cool place for up to two weeks, or heel them in for safekeeping,.
Heeling In
Dig a hole large enough for all the roots, cover with soil up to and including 1” or 2” of the stem, plant properly when possible.
Frost
If you can get a spade into the ground then plant your roses. It is much safer for them to be planted than not, frost should not harm them.. Protect containerised plants if freezing conditions persist for more than one or two days without a break, bringing them into a shed, garage or greenhouse is ideal. Immerse bare root plants in a bucket of water for 5 or 6 hours before planting. Do not let the roots dry out as you plant.
Ensure the planting hole is big enough to accommodate the root system, incorporate compost (especially in heavy soil) and well rotted manure if available.
Make sure the plant is secure by firming with your foot. The ideal planting depth is to have the crown level or just an inch below the soil surface. Water the plant in and also during drought conditions, especially in the first year.
Proprietary fertiliser can be applied in accordance with the instructions on the box. Foliar feeding (every 6 weeks approximately) is also beneficial.
Planting Container Roses
Do not disturb the root ball if at all possible. Ensure the planting hole is big enough, refill with friable soil and or compost when necessary. Water copiously to ensure establishment of the rose and give half a bucketful every other day for the following 2 or 3 weeks.
Pruning New Bush Roses
At the end of February or beginning of March prune back to an outward facing eye 4” to 6” (10 to 15cms) above the ground. Reduce by 2/3 any thinner, weaker side shoots.
Pruning New Climbers, Ground cover and Shrubs
Prune to an outward facing eye where possible 10” to 12” (25 to 30cms) approximately from the crown. Reduce weaker shoots by 2/3.
Pruning Established roses
Bush Varieties
After flowering has finished during November or December reduce the height of the bush by 1/3 to help stop wind rock. At the end of February or beginning of March cut down to 4” to 6” (10 to 15cms). Leave floribundas and perpetual flowing shrubs a little longer, somewhere between 8” to 12” (20 to 30cms).
Once - flowering varieties trim lightly only where necessary, usually during the Summer immediately after flowering. Remove all dead growth.
Climbers
Cut back approximately 1/3 of the stronger new growth. Thin spindly wood. Reduce to 4” (10cms) from the main stem.
Ever 4th or 5th year consider reducing one older shoot to 18” (45cms). This is to create some new growth from the base.
Ramblers
Prune where necessary after flowering (during the Summer only). Again consider reducing one older shoot to 18” every 5 or 6 years to create new growth from the base.
Ground cover
Trim where necessary, taking out an older shoot every 3rd or 4th year.
Standard Roses
Ensure a good stake and tie are used for securing the plant. Remove suckers on the stem. Prune upright varieties to approximately 6” to 10” (15 to 25cms). Weepers trim where necessary. Reduce older shoots to 12” (30cms), but only 1 or 2 per year.
Pests and Diseases
Always prevent rather than cure. Begin spraying during early March using a proprietary fungicide and insecticide. Spray every 3-4 weeks to give good protection.
Do not use only one chemical, alternate between say Roseclear 3 and Uncle Toms Rose Tonic. Never mix them unless it says on the box that you can.
